It's Not to Late to Plant your Spring Flowering Bulbs

Yes, you can still plant any of the spring flowering bulbs, they will probably not bloom this year, but next year you'll be all set.  Here's a way to "cheat" a bit when you are planting your bulbs.     


Employ your power drill as a planter

A power drill used with a bulb auger will make planting your bulbs a snap.  Most augers come in 2 sizes, one for smaller bulbs and one for larger bulbs such as tulips and daffodils.  You can purchase the augers at most nursery stores.  You can also apply this time-saving technique for planting annuals, turning and aerating your compost pile, or mixing potting-soil recipes.  Of course there's always the shovel or trowel that can be used as well.
For really striking displays,  make your own flower basket with your bulbs.  You can plant in various areas, but try to stay consistent with your color palette.   You want an area about 12" across and 9-10 inches deep.  Make sure you add compost or another bulb fertilizer like Bulb tone to the soil and mix well.  Then plant your daffodils or Narcissus in the middle of your area (think of a basket), add several allium bulbs around the daffodils, space them about 4-5 inches apart from the daffodils, add some soil to the area, then 3 crocus about 8-9 inches apart and add more soil.  You can vary this technique depending on your choice of colors.  Just check the depth and spacing of the bulbs you want to plant.  You can go a little deeper than the package recommends to start your daffies. Their tough and can take it.  When you get bloom, take pictures and mark were your bulbs are planted.  I use thin bamboo poles to mark mine as well.  Having dug up a bunch......sigh   Just stuffed em back in the ground, sorry, sorry, sorry.   
To help protect your bulbs, take the time to mulch them in the winter.  Add about 3-4 inches of good quality mulch.  It helps protect the bulbs from sudden changes in temperature, smothers out a lot weed seeds (we can all do with out those)  and makes it easier to tend to other plants that may planted around the area.  Mulch only the bulbs.  

Spring is Coming!!

Boy am I ready for spring.  I'm trying some winter sowing this year, haven't done it in a long time, but I have some extra perennial seeds I want to try.
I will probably start my tomato, pepper and melon seeds under lights toward the end of the month.  I'm in Zone 7b, but my current location is closer to 8.  So I can push the envelope a bit on that sort of thing.

If you live in Zone 7 and further south, now is the time to prune your rose bushes.  It's also a good time to think about forcing some flowers.  Forsythia's are a lovely, especially on these gray days.  That bright yellow is so pretty, just makes you feel better.  You can also force pears and quince are also very lovely.
Here are some directions on how to force spring flowering trees and shrubs:

Nothing lifts the spirits as much as the sight of a few branches of golden forsythia, coral-colored quince or creamy pear blossoms. Branches of spring-flowering trees are easy to force for indoor display. You can force almost any spring-blooming tree or shrub from mid-January or early February on.

Follow these simple steps to bring the outdoors in long before spring:

1. Select the appropriate branches. Experiment with a variety of things from your garden, cutting heavily budded branches on a mild day. Choose stems of medium thickness or better, since these contain large quantities of stored sugar needed to nourish flower buds.

2. Use a sharp knife or pruning shears to cut the branches; slice diagonally just above the bud. Cut branches at least 2'-3' long; shorter branches are less effective in arrangements.

3. Bring the branches indoors and strip flower buds and small twigs from the bottom few inches of the stems. Slit up the stem ends a few inches or crush slightly with pliers to encourage water absorption. Some may bloom faster if you submerge them completely in a tepid water bath for a few hours before making your arrangement.

4. Add the following to the water:

            1/4 teaspoon citric acid mixed with one gallon of water
            or 1 tablespoon sugar mixed with 1/4 teaspoon bleach
            or 2 parts water to 1 part tonic water (or non-diet lemon lime soda)

5.Re cut stems and change the water every few days add.

Good candidates for forcing include: forsythias, pussy willows, fruit trees such as apples, cherries, plums, and almonds; flowering quinces, lilacs, witch hazels, hawthorns, mock oranges, spireas, wisterias, spice bush and horse chestnut.

You also do not want to forget the option of forcing bulbs.  October is the time of the year to begin potting your favorite spring bulbs to prepare them for winter flowering.  Tulips, narcissus (daffodils), hyacinths, crocus, scillas, grape hyacinths, and lily of the valley can be forced into flower in late winter and early spring.  A pot of tulips on the window sill in February can make a winter-worn gardener renew the desire to survive the winter.

Bulbs must be given a cold temperature treatment of 35-48 degrees F for a minimum of 1213 weeks. This cold treatment can be provided by a cold frame, an unheated attic or cellar, or even your refrigerator's vegetable section. In the refrigerator, the pots should be covered with plastic bags that have had a few breathing holes punched in them.

With cold frames in very cold climates deep mulch must be used. Cover the pots with 10 inches of soil, then cover with 10 inches of mulch (hay, sawdust, or leaves). The bulbs must not be allowed to freeze.

Mark your calendar to remind yourself when the first pots can be removed from storage for forcing to begin. If planted October 1, bring the first pots into the home right after Christmas. For a continuous supply of flowers, bring in a few pots at weekly intervals. On the average the bulbs will flower in three to four weeks. Closer to spring, they flower more rapidly.

In the home, place the pots in a cool, sunny location. A temperature of 50-60 degrees F is preferred for the first week or until the shoots and leaves begin to expand. Then, they can be moved to warmer locations such as the living room.  Avoid direct sunlight.  Hyacinths may have a tendency not to have an elongated flower stem and "stick" in the clasp of leaves.  This problem may be overcome by placing the plants in the dark for a few days or placing a paper cone over the plants in order to "draw" the flower out of the bulbs.  Warmer temperatures will result in rapid growth.  Once the bulbs are blooming, move the pots to a cool location each night.  The cooler temperatures will prolong the life of the flowers.  Small pots of crocus can even be placed in your refrigerator overnight.

Discard tulips, narcissus, crocus, and hyacinths after flowering as they normally are "spent" and are not likely to ever flower satisfactorily again.